Hear from Our Customers
Your refrigerator stays cold without draining your batteries. Your boat AC keeps the cabin comfortable even during Long Island’s hottest August days. You don’t worry about spoiled provisions three hours into a weekend trip.
That’s what proper marine refrigeration looks like. Systems designed for saltwater environments, installed by people who understand boat electrical constraints, and maintained before problems turn into emergencies.
Most boat refrigeration failures happen because someone treated your vessel like a house. Your boat faces constant motion, salt air, humidity, and limited power—all things that destroy standard equipment fast. Marine-grade components cost more upfront because they’re built to handle what your boat throws at them. Copper coils corrode in weeks without proper protection. Door seals fail when they’re not marine-spec. Compressors burn out when installers don’t account for your electrical setup.
You get a system that works when you need it. Not one that quits during the season opener or leaves you troubleshooting at the dock while everyone else heads out.
We’ve spent over 40 years working on commercial refrigeration and marine HVAC systems across Nassau County and Long Island. That combination matters because boat refrigeration isn’t just smaller—it’s fundamentally different from land-based systems.
Franklin Square sits minutes from major Long Island marinas and yacht clubs. Boat owners here know the drill: saltwater eats equipment, summer heat pushes systems to their limits, and finding someone who actually understands marine installations takes forever. We’ve worked with Britannia Yacht Club, individual boat owners from Montauk to the North Shore, and commercial operators who can’t afford downtime.
Our team handles marine air conditioning, boat refrigeration, and custom cooling solutions that other companies turn down. You call, we answer—even at 2 AM when your system fails and you’re trying to salvage a trip. That’s not marketing talk. It’s how we’ve built dozens of five-star reviews.
You reach a real technician who asks the right questions. Not a call center—someone who knows whether your issue is a refrigerant leak, a failing compressor, or just a clogged sea strainer. We schedule a time that works around your boating plans, not our convenience.
When we arrive at your marina or dock, we run diagnostics on your entire system. Water flow, electrical draw, refrigerant levels, condenser condition, door seals—the works. Most marine refrigeration problems trace back to three or four common issues, but we don’t guess. We test, measure, and confirm before recommending anything.
If it’s a simple fix, we handle it on the spot. Our trucks carry marine-grade parts for the most common repairs. If you need a new compressor or a full system replacement, we explain exactly what’s failing, why it failed, and what prevents it from happening again. Then we source the right equipment for your boat’s size, electrical capacity, and how you actually use it.
Installation follows marine standards—proper through-hull fittings, correctly sized pumps, sealed compartments that don’t pull bilge air, and ductwork that actually delivers cold air where you need it. After everything’s running, we walk you through basic maintenance you can handle yourself and what requires professional service. Then we test the system under load to make sure it performs before we leave.
Ready to get started?
Every service call starts with a full system evaluation. We check seawater flow to your condenser, inspect raw water pumps for blockages or wear, test refrigerant levels, examine door gaskets, and measure electrical draw. Marine air conditioning systems need clean sea strainers and condenser coils to function efficiently—dirt and growth reduce cooling capacity and spike power consumption.
Franklin Square boat owners face the same challenges as everyone on Long Island: saltwater accelerates corrosion, summer humidity works against your system, and Long Island Sound’s water temperature affects how efficiently your condenser operates. We account for these local factors when sizing equipment and recommending maintenance schedules.
New installations get marine-grade components rated for saltwater environments. That means titanium or cupronickel coils, not standard copper that corrodes in months. Proper insulation around your refrigeration box. Through-hull fittings positioned where they won’t suck air or get blocked by prop wash. Electrical connections that handle marine moisture without failing.
Emergency service means we show up fast with parts and solutions, not excuses. About 70% of emergency calls get fixed the same visit. The rest get temporary solutions to keep you running while we order specialized components. Our trucks stay stocked because waiting three days for a part during boating season isn’t acceptable.
Maintenance contracts include pre-season checkups, mid-season inspections, and priority scheduling. You don’t wait weeks for service when something goes wrong. Regular maintenance catches refrigerant leaks before they empty your system, identifies worn pumps before they fail, and keeps your boat refrigeration running efficiently all season.
Plan for professional service twice per year minimum—once before boating season starts and once mid-season. Pre-season service catches issues before your first trip. Mid-season maintenance addresses wear from heavy use and confirms everything’s still running efficiently.
Between professional visits, check your sea strainer weekly during active months. A clogged strainer reduces water flow to your condenser, which causes high pressure faults and poor cooling. Clean your condenser coils if you notice reduced performance. Inspect door gaskets for gaps or damage—a bad seal wastes power and reduces cooling capacity.
If you’re using your boat year-round or taking extended trips, add a third inspection. Marine refrigeration systems work harder in summer heat and high humidity. Franklin Square’s proximity to saltwater means your components face constant corrosion pressure. Regular service extends equipment life and prevents expensive emergency repairs when you’re trying to enjoy your boat.
Boat refrigeration faces challenges that don’t exist on land. Your system operates in constant motion, high humidity, salt air, and with limited electrical power. Standard residential components fail quickly in these conditions.
Marine systems use water cooling instead of air cooling because boats have abundant water access and limited electrical capacity. Your condenser pulls seawater through a pump to reject heat, then discharges it overboard. This requires marine-grade pumps, through-hull fittings, and corrosion-resistant components. Saltwater will destroy standard equipment in weeks.
Power constraints matter significantly. Your boat runs on battery power or a generator with limited capacity. Marine refrigeration must operate efficiently to avoid draining batteries. That means properly sized compressors, maximum insulation, and components designed for DC power. Residential refrigerators draw power constantly because shore power is unlimited—boat systems can’t do that.
Space limitations require creative installations. Your refrigeration box fits in whatever space the boat designer allowed. Condensers and compressors get tucked into tight engine rooms or under berths. Ductwork for marine AC must route through limited pathways. Professional installation accounts for these constraints while maintaining proper airflow and access for service.
High pressure faults mean your air conditioning system is overheating. The most common cause is reduced seawater flow to your condenser. Saltwater environments grow barnacles, grass, and other fouling inside hoses and through-hull fittings. This growth restricts water flow, which prevents your condenser from rejecting heat properly.
Check your sea strainer first. A clogged strainer is the easiest fix and causes most flow problems. If the strainer looks clean, your raw water pump might be failing or your intake through-hull could be blocked. Sometimes the pump loses prime after your boat’s been hauled out, creating an airlock that prevents water circulation.
Dirty condenser coils also cause high pressure faults. Salt deposits and marine growth on the condenser reduce heat transfer efficiency. Regular cleaning prevents this. If you’re seeing high pressure faults frequently during Long Island’s summer heat, your system might be undersized for your boat or the ambient conditions.
A failing raw water pump needs immediate attention. Running your AC with high head pressure damages the compressor and can cause complete system failure. If cleaning the strainer doesn’t resolve the fault, shut down the system and call for service. Continuing to run it risks expensive compressor replacement instead of a simple pump repair.
Simple repairs like replacing a sea strainer, fixing a door gasket, or cleaning condenser coils typically run $200 to $400. These are maintenance items that prevent bigger problems. Mid-level repairs—replacing a raw water pump, fixing refrigerant leaks, or replacing control boards—usually cost $500 to $1,200 depending on parts and labor.
Major repairs like compressor replacement or full system overhauls range from $1,500 to $4,000. At that price point, sometimes installing a new system makes more sense than repairing a failing one. We’ll tell you honestly when replacement beats repair. A new marine air conditioning unit that’s properly sized and installed lasts 10-15 years with regular maintenance.
Emergency service costs more than scheduled appointments, but it’s available when you need it. Waiting until Monday morning doesn’t help when your refrigeration fails Saturday and you’re losing provisions. We stock common parts specifically to reduce emergency repair costs—if we can fix it with inventory we’re already carrying, you don’t pay extra for rush parts ordering.
Free estimates mean you know the cost before we start work. No surprises, no hidden fees. We explain what’s wrong, what it costs to fix, and what happens if you don’t fix it. Then you decide. Preventive maintenance through service contracts costs less than emergency repairs and catches problems early when they’re cheaper to address.
Yes. We install marine refrigeration and air conditioning systems at marinas throughout Franklin Square, Nassau County, and all of Long Island. Installation location doesn’t matter—we come to your dock or slip with everything needed for professional installation.
New installations start with evaluating your boat’s layout, electrical capacity, and how you use the vessel. A boat that stays local on day trips needs different capacity than one making extended offshore runs. We measure your refrigeration box, assess insulation, determine the best location for condensers and compressors, and plan ductwork that delivers efficient cooling.
Electrical assessment matters significantly. We verify your boat’s power system can handle the refrigeration load without draining batteries or overloading circuits. Many installation problems trace back to inadequate electrical capacity. If your current system can’t support proper marine refrigeration, we’ll explain what upgrades are necessary.
Installation includes marine-grade components rated for saltwater environments, proper through-hull fittings positioned below the waterline where they won’t suck air, sealed compartments that recirculate cabin air instead of pulling humid bilge air, and correctly sized pumps. We test everything under load before finishing the job. Then we show you basic operation and maintenance so you understand your new system.
Most installations complete within one to two weeks from assessment to finished system. Complex installations on larger vessels or boats requiring electrical upgrades take longer. We’ll give you an accurate timeline upfront so you can plan around it.
Self-contained marine air conditioners pack all components—compressor, condenser, evaporator, and blower—into one unit. These work well for boats under 40 feet with limited cabin space. The entire unit installs inside your air-conditioned area, usually under a berth or settee. Self-contained systems are simpler to install and service because everything’s in one location.
Split systems separate components between two units. The evaporator and blower install in your cabin where they deliver cool air. The condenser and compressor mount separately, typically in the engine room. Split systems suit medium-sized boats with one large cabin area. They’re quieter than self-contained units because the noisy compressor isn’t in your living space.
Larger boats over 60 feet often use chiller systems. A central chiller cools freshwater, then pumps that chilled water throughout the boat to individual air handlers in each cabin. This provides efficient cooling for multiple spaces without running separate AC units. Chiller systems cost more upfront but operate more efficiently on larger vessels.
Your boat’s size, layout, and power capacity determine which system works best. Franklin Square boat owners typically run vessels between 25 and 50 feet, which means most installations use self-contained or split systems. We’ll recommend the right type based on your specific boat and usage patterns, not what’s easiest for us to install. The goal is efficient cooling that doesn’t drain your batteries or require constant maintenance.
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